================================ Some objects I printed ================================ :CreationDate: 2009-09-07 15:32:20 :Id: HW/makerbot/printed-objects :tags: - hardware - 3dPrint The round 12-sided die ====================== A friend of mine, member of my D&D group, asked me, as soon as he discovered that I would get a 3-D printer: «can you print me the intersection of three cylinders?» New, the resulting object is not exactly easy to visualize, but it's a 12-sided solid, where each side would be a square, were it flat; in fact, the sides are curved. Obviously there is no way to print an object similar to a sphere on the CupCake: we would need some support material. What we can do, instead, is to print a half-sphere; we print it twice, we glue the halves together, and we get a sphere. [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0980' alt="half-die, from an edge" %] Half of the die, seen from an edge [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0981' alt="half-die, from above" %] Half of the die, seen from above [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0982' alt="half-die, from the side" %] Half of the die, seen from the side [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0983' alt="half-die, from the side and edge" %] Half of the die, seen from the side, looking at an edge [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0984' alt="half-die, upside-down" %] Half of the die, upside-down. It rolls well enough, after a little sanding [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0985' alt="half-die, from the top" %] Half of the die, seen from the top: it's a very good approximation of a circle [% END %] Sadly, the two halves have warped a bit during printing, and it will not be easy to glue them in such a way as to keep them "round". The benchmark piece =================== Just to try it out, I printed `the RepRap benchmark piece `_. First problem: the raft wasn't sticking to the build base; solved by keeping the extruder nearer to the base. I discovered immediately afterwards that the build base was not precisely horizontal; I don't know whether the plastic build base is distorted, or the translation axes are somehow misaligned (hard to believe). After about forty minutes of printing, I notice that the model is distorted; it happens quite often, but this time it's warping the build base! In fact, I soon had to abort the print: the base had detached from the wooden support that holds it to the Y stage, and the extruded filaments were going every which way. Results: [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0992' alt="half the benchmark piece" %] This is all I could print before having to abort. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0993' alt="warped piece" %] See how bent it is. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0995' alt="warped piece, from the side" %] From the side it's even more noticeable. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_0997' alt="warped base, from the side" %] And this is how much my build base has bent… [% END %] To do for next time: * check the orthogonality of the base * use the bolted build base, instead of the one held with double-sided tape Bolted build base ================= Seeing the (little) reliability of the taped build base, I started using the bolted one. To make it more robust, I used both wooden plates (by drilling the holes in one of them). [% INCLUDE 'image.tt' pic='img_1020' alt="bolted base, for above" %] [% INCLUDE 'image.tt' pic='img_1021' alt="bolted base, from the side" %] The whistle =========== Using the new build base, I printed `the whistle `_ (I actually used `the cleaned version `_ ). It came out pretty well, but it does not actually whistle… [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1017' alt="the whistle" %] A bit of excess filaments, but it printed. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1018' alt="the mouth of the whistle" %] As you can see, there's a lot of "ooze", especially on the inside. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1019' alt="the inside of the whistle" %] You can just see the "pea". [% END %] I should maybe study the effects of the "comb" and "oozebane" settings in ``skeinforge``\ … The "printruder" ================ Since the whistle came out well enough, I tried a "hard piece": the "`printruder `_", which is the support part of the extruder, in a printable version. I have to say that it feels like magic, seeing a printer producing its own replacement pieces! How did it print? Surprisingly well! I noticed almost no distortion / warping, even with such large pieces. [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1016' alt="the pieces of the printruder" %] Ensemble: all the pieces of the printruder. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1009' alt="idler bracket" %] Idler bracket. The "bridges" above the central hole are very thin, and protrude a bit, but it's not a problem: there is plenty of space, and the load is toward the opposite side. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1011' alt="motor bracket" %] Motor bracket [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1012' alt="motor bracket" %] As you can see, there are a few "blobs", but nothing a little knife work can't cure. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1013' alt="the filament hole" %] The motor bracket includes the hole for the ABS filament: the alignment is perfect. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1014' alt="the base plate" %] Printruder base plate: I didn't even have to file the dovetail slide. [% END %] [% WRAPPER 'figure.tt' pic='img_1015' alt="insulator retainer" %] The easy part: the support for the insulator and the "hot" part of the extruder. [% END %] After printing, I cleaned the holes with a drill; I cleaned the filament hole by hand, with a drill bit, to avoid breaking the plastic around it. Now I only have to buy the required bolts and bearing, and try to use it.